Introduction After a 20 year gap, this was my 3rd visit to the splendid Belgian town of Ypres. I am acutely aware that my poor attempt at a pun for a title also refers to the third battle of Ypres at Passchendaele in 1917. In an already horrific war, this battle resonates, with many people, as a spectacular and vivid illustration of the senseless slaughter of men. I mean absolutely no offence, and hold the utmost respect for anyone connected with that period of history. The trip was suggested by Alex back in November and I jumped on the bandwagon immediately, even though 2 of the other travellers were people I had never met. Alex vouched for them and that was enough for me. Fast forward to the day before the crossing into France and the first of my 1100 miles in a car begins. The plan is to travel to Kent for an overnight stay at Alex's house before setting off at 05:30 on Saturday morning. As it is a Friday, Britain's motorways, specifically M6 and M25, do what they do best an...